CineStyle: Eyes of Laura Mars

One of my favorite fashion films is Eyes of Laura Mars c.1978. The story was conceived and co-written by John Carpenter. Faye Dunaway is Laura Mars, a high fashion photographer on top. Laura is controversial and fearless and creates images of violence through fashion editorial. Irony intended in this thriller as photographer Laura begins to see psychic visions (through the eyes of the killer) of the violent deaths of her friends and colleagues before they happen. 


Enter, Tommy Lee Jones, the detective who is investigating the series of murders and becomes intimately involved with Laura. It is a classic psuedo erotic thriller, a formula we saw so often throughout the 80's with its surprise twist ending.  

I of course adore the film mainly for its fashion and styling. The production design was by the late Gene Callahan and costume design by Theoni V. Aldredge. Aldredge also designed for The Great Gatsby and The Rose starring Bette Midler. Sadly Aldredge passed away last year January 2011. The fashion shoot scenes of the film and the still photos and exhibit photograph were images by Helmut Newton.  

Director Irving Kershner used mirrors to keep things tense and reference Laura's frightening visions throughout the film. Whether you believe it is intentional or not, I see a self-deprecating eye on the excess and end of the disco era. Or mindless entertainment. Who cares? One thing is for certain the film is beautiful to behold frame after frame.

Neon Love

When I think of neon signs I think tales of Noir, 80's new wave and the fascinating seedy underbelly of life. And what could be more fascinating than Neon Love. 


Happy Valentine's Day darlings.

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Vintage Black Burlesque!

1920's NYC Chorus Line source: LASCA SARTORIS blog

 As you may know I a have a love of burlesque. From the broader elements of vaudeville to the glamorous ensembles and clever routines, I am enchanted. In the last few years I have sought out vintage images of gorgeous pin ups and burlesque performers who looked more like me. I have to say, it's hard work finding the history of Black pin ups and burlesque performers! So I wanted to share some of the fab resources and pics I managed to find. 


You will find a fabulous collection of vintage images of women of color on LASCA SARTORIS, a tumblr blog. 

Ada Overton Walker

Josephine Baker Postcard

La “Revue Nègre” in Nelson-Theater,Berlin,1932 by Hans Robertson 

With burlesque once again becoming mainstream entertainment mainstream Black publications like Ebony are chronicling Black history in the genre: 


African-American women have been performing burlesque in its various incarnations since at least the late 19th century. Early performances could best be described as R-rated variety shows, blending satire and politically commentary (think Colbert Report-style humor) with musical numbers and a bit of raciness. In 1890,The Creole Show debuted featuring sisters draped in lavish costumes, showing off their legs, and even cross-dressing in skits that provided smart social commentary on American culture. Stars of the show included Ada Overton Walker, Stella Wiley, Dora Dean and Belle Davis, who would go on to star in Oriental America, a dazzling spectacle mocking the exotification of African-American and Asian women, illustrating the hypocrisy of America’s policies in the Far East, and the enforcement of Jim Crow laws stateside. And yes, they looked gorgeous while doing it. source: http://www.ebony.com/photos/entertainment-culture/vintage-black-burlesque 

40's Star Madeline "Sahji" Jackson. Watch Sahji perform here.

Lottie the Body

WierdWildRealm.com has a great succinct page on burlesque in harlem: 

Black Burlesque was never as much at the fringe of entertainment as it was for white burlesque. It held longer to the Vaudeville traditions with Harlem Renaissance associations. Burlesque showgirls were part of Cab Calloway's troupe & were featured regularly at the Cotton Club & the Savoy Ballroom & the Apollo Theater.

Famous burlesque producer Billy Minsky called what went on in Harlem "progressive burlesque," & it's what he tried to do when he had a star with the break-out potential of Gypsy Rose Lee.  

Jean Idell, specialized in the art of the fan dance 

Toni Elling

Lastly another great resource for researching specific people, topics and events or for just looking back in time is Jet Magazine which is online in its entirety thanks to Google Books. 

Jet issues from 1952 into the 70's make for a fascinating read in my opinion. Jet chronicles pop culture and topical news, events essentially modern history week by week, a fabulous resource. Many a shake dancer or exotic dancer was featured, reported on and/or a covergirl in Jet magazine.

Gloria Howard, aka La Bommie

To keeping these fabulous women and their craft alive and well for years to come. 

xo, 

Vanessa

Big Bold Burlesque!

The Ladies of Brown Girls Burlesque

The lovely Miss Dakota!

This year for me is about body positivity and as always, living my most glamorous life! So, I spent January 2012 celebrating the womanly art of Burlesque. I took a 4 week beginner's course with the Miss Dakota's Burlesque Academy taught by professional dancer Miss Dakota here in Los Angeles. And boy was it fun! What body image issues? Miss Dakota had us laughing while we strutted our individual stuff and found our own style in the fabulous basic moves she taught us. The first week we worked with boas, the second week she introduced gloves, the third week focused on some choreography and the final week we got to work with fans! I am definitely a fan girl. 

I also attended Victory Variety Hour the longest running burlesque show in L.A. VVH celebrated founder and Super Star Penny Star Jr.'s birthday and special guest Margaret Cho performed a FANtastic burlesque number too. You can check out some of the highlights here! If you are in town, VVH is a MUST SEE! 


While watching the fabulous vaudevillian comedy and striptease numbers at Victory Variety Hour I was once again amazed at how CRAZY creative and hilarious of a craft burlesque really is. Humor, costuming, choreography, story, Burlesque has it all! My creativity was sparking all over the place! I can't wait to get some inspired new goodies for you at SweetLeigh! 


Burlesque has not only become a fun stylish spectator sport but I would love to end my year of Body Positive journeying with a performance of my own!  Women of every ethnicity, sexuality, gender, shape and size are part of this empowering tribute to sensuality, fun and fantasy! 


Coming Soon, the women of Vintage Burlesque! For now, a very brief introduction to some of the fabulous modern women of the artform I have been inspired by:

New Orleans treasure, Perle Noire by Leland Bobbe

SF Legend Alotta Boutte, Founder of Harlem Shake Burlesque

Dirty Martini in "Coco A Gogo" editorial in V Magazine 2010

The Lady Ms. Vagina Jenkins photo:Mollie Montana

Brown Girls Burlesque, NYC. 

xo,


Vanessa Leigh

Costume Whore - Mark Bridges, The Artist

I just saw the film The Artist. If you haven't heard, (forgive the corny pun), The Artist is a modern day silent film that is set in the late 20's about (Jean Dujardin as)George Valentin silent film star, whose life is turned upside down by the advent of talkies. Opposite Dujardin is  Bérénice Bejo as Peppy Miller, the young ingenue who is taking Talking pictures by storm. 

Tears and laughter abound. Not only did I love every minute of the film but being addicted to all things of the art deco era, I could hardly stand the fabulous costuming. Spectacular. Mark Bridges, costume designer for There Will Be Blood, Boogie Nights, The Fighter, Fur and so many others took The Artist to task.

Inspired by Clara Bow and Joan Crawford Bridges documents the road to success in Bejo's wardrobe. Peppy goes from wearing classic simple drop waist dresses to beaded and chiffon gowns. An insane monkey fur jacket is one of the highlights! Vintage of couse! Working in black and white meant working in contrasts, textures primarily. 

Bridges had to recreate most of the 20's garments to create a wardrobe, as the delicate fabrics and details would hardly hold up to filming. And as we vintage lovers know hard to find. Creating his own patterns from authentic period pieces he made many of the dresses in contemporary fabrics. 

He also reconstructed styled a few modern beaded pieces since the 20's (as always in my opinion) are in vogue. According to The Hollywood Reporter the costume's are in Ms. Bejo's closet at her home in Paris, but will travel to Los Angeles for display at FIDM during award's season! 

If you have not seen it yet, do!

xo, 

Vanessa

P.S. Check out this fabulous blog post on Mark Bridges Costume design for There Will Be Blood by Stitched and Stitched. http://www.stitchedandstitched.com/?p=300